Finding Quark: The Perfect Boat for Us & Bringing Her Home. Texas -> Florida

Bringing Quark Home: Berwick Lock –> Mississippi State Line

1. A Surprise on the Water: The Cable Ferry and Bayou Boeuf Lock

Leaving Berwick Lock, I encountered the first challenge of the day: a cable ferry at 94 WHL. This ferry, a bit tricky to spot, gave a single horn blast as it started crossing and another when clear. It was a reminder to stay vigilant in these waters.

Not long after, I arrived at the Bayou Boeuf Lock at 93 WHL. The lock wasn’t open, but a quick call to the operator on Channel 14 got me the help I needed. He kindly walked me through the process, and before I knew it, Quark and I were back on our way.

2. Endless Swamps and Lift Bridges

The stretch past Houma, Louisiana, was a lonely one. Undeveloped swamp and marshland surrounded me, with no anchorages, no stops for a snack—just mile after mile of holding the tiller.

The day’s journey included several bridge crossings: a pontoon bridge at Bayou Blue and the Larose-Bourg lift bridge. My attempt to pronounce “Bourg” on the radio brought a chuckle from a kind Cajun who tried teaching me the proper way to say it. I’ll admit, I didn’t quite nail it, but his generosity made the moment memorable.

That night, I dropped anchor on the foggy north-northwest corner of Bayou Perot, just a hundred yards out of the channel. The mosquitoes were relentless, forcing me to light papers in a metal wine cup inside the cabin in a desperate attempt to smoke them out. Sleep came fitfully in a hammock strung from Quark’s boom, accompanied by the buzzing of the mosquitoes and the distant hum of airboats warming up at nearby docks.

3. The Mighty Mississippi

Two days later, I was preparing for the part of the journey I dreaded most: crossing the Mississippi River. After a long 70-mile stretch, Quark and I entered Harvey Lock Canal, only to hear a disappointing announcement. The Harvey Lock was closed due to low water, and all traffic was being diverted to the Algiers Lock—downstream of the Mississippi, meaning I’d have to fight the river’s upstream current.

With some guidance from a friendly barge crew and reassurance from oyster boats inside the lock, we made it. As the lock gates opened and Quark turned north into the Mississippi, she held her own. For the first time in my life, I was at the helm on this mighty river.

The sense of accomplishment was quickly overshadowed by reality. A Carnival cruise liner approached, flanked by Coast Guard vessels. One of them veered toward me, a mounted gun aimed as a reminder to stay clear. I moved to the starboard side, feeling very small in those powerful waters.

4. Intense Moments and New Friends

The Mississippi held more surprises. At a spillway, a flashing yellow light and a spotlight warned me of an approaching barge struggling against the current. The operator instructed me to hold position. When it was clear I should proceed, Quark shot through the spillway at over 10 knots. The narrow wooden walls and swift current made for one of the most intense moments of the journey.

Finally, after nearly 12 hours at the helm, I reached Rabbit Island, the last anchorage in Louisiana. This remote spot was a blend of tranquility and adventure, complete with gators, train whistles, and breathtaking sunsets.

5. A Pause at Rabbit Island

We stayed at Rabbit Island for four nights, resting and reflecting on the journey so far. I took in the peaceful surroundings, stocked up on fuel and supplies at Rigolets Marina, and prepared for the next leg of the voyage.